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The summer
of 2002 my family bought an apartment in St. Petersburg, Russia. The series
of undeniable facts associated with this acquisition -- receiving the
great amount of cash from the bank and carrying it across the city in
a car which kept breaking down at every busy intersection, paying the
money, watching how the agent examined every bill to make sure it is new
and clean (the process took nearly an hour), signing the documents, receiving
the key, and looking in wonder at a dilapidated smelly flat -- all that
was hardly factual. The process was like a dream or rather a storm, a
veritable Shakespearean tempest. I am still living on the shores of that
unquiet sea although I have since returned to Atlanta, Georgia, and entered
a very busy academic schedule. The Tempest, however, lives in my mind;
its characters speak to me side by side with my University colleagues,
and they address me at the busiest of meetings. The worst part is that
I do not want this to stop, at least not until I finish this story.
I get most mixed up when I wake up in the middle of the night. I thought
I left it all behind 30 years ago when we first emigrated from Russia
-- waking up and not knowing where I am, going through a list of living
spaces which comprise even the kindergarten of my early childhood, and
eventually remembering that I am very much on the other side of the globe.
How, then, did I come to this shore? There must have been a whirlwind,
or so I think looking at the parched Atlanta trees from my home window.
One lives inside and outside one's mind while always searching for an
alignment between these two sometimes very unlikely worlds. In spite of
much feminist scholarship of the last 20 years, I have always secretly
identified with Prospero's Miranda: to me she is my kind of girl, a child
who started by weeping and ended up learning how to play chess. Indeed,
the factual biographical correspondences are impossible to deny: I too
was brought up by a banished father who had taught me liberal arts. My
father, of course, was not a duke from Milan, but a Russian linguist,
Yuri Glazov, who in 1968 was expelled from his job at the Academy of Sciences
because he had signed some letters in support of human rights. This single
act of imprudent courage did not get him a medal of honor; instead it
resulted in all of us being stripped of Russian citizenship and in our
eventual emigration to the United States and then to Canada. In August
2001 year I returned to the States.
Russia then for me is very much like Italy for Miranda, and the unprecedented
changes of the last 10 years in my country are not merely international
events: they are always a family story. In 1991 we were allowed to visit
Moscow, and already then it was possible to buy an apartment (and to buy
it for a few thousand dollars to boot). My father refused. Like the patriarch
he was, he made a decision for all of us: "The night after the battle
belongs to thieves and marauders. If these are real changes, let my old
superiors return to me my apartment and apologize." I did not argue
then; I loved him for being what he was, but I wondered already then whether
or not he believed his own words. One can visualize the futility of that
impossible occurrence with the help of Shakespeare: Antonio, Sebastian,
and Alonso in The Tempest, just by themselves, without Ariel-harpy, decided
to return to Prospero his dukedom, just because it was the right thing
to do (and possibly because they were scared of the storm). An unlikely
scenario, indeed, not suitable even for a Shakespearean Romance. Thus,
no one came to restore our losses or clear away our tears, and the prices
rose and rose again.
Since our first permitted visits to Russia, years passed, more than a
decade. The last time my father visited Russia was the summer of 1997.
He got sick. "This country makes me unwell," he said, but still could
not help walking for hours in its streets, taking trains to the suburbs,
talking to people on the street with his characteristic carefree lighthearted
warmth. "Life begins anew," I thought to myself, "We are
returning." But it did not return. My father died from cancer that
winter. His sickness and death were very unexpected. A year earlier he
skied for hours, was youthful and agile.
As my dad was dying, I saw him assessing his life on his deathbed....
Russia remained his battleground. He did not win the battle, but he did
not lose his dignity. And then he left. We stayed behind.
How does Miranda, I always think, enter Milan and Naples and make friends
with the people who had banished her father? Does she go to the balls
and stately dinners? Is she not afraid of poison in her food? She is sweet,
Miranda. I, on the other hand, lost my sweetness long ago, seasoned as
it were by the salty waters of the stormy sea. The same salt devoured
half of my memory, but what remained began to assume almost archetypal
forms in the bitter-sweet landscape of my mind. Only lately then did I
begin to understand why by the end of his life Shakespeare wrote tragicomedies
and why his battlegrounds were populated by the fauna and flora of the
tender tricky youngsters.
My two children came to study in St. Petersburg in 2001, just when I returned
to the United States. My son Yuri looks physically very much like his
no-longer-living grandfather. When he comes to visit our friends in Moscow,
they feel that they are seeing their lost friend. "But not for long,"
quips Yuri, who fortunately has inherited some of the family's sense of
fun. "When I open my mouth," he says, "they roll their eyes." "This one
is not Yurochka," they say, "this boy is a naïve fool from Canada."
And Yuri laughs as if our seasoned friends have just complimented him
on his intellectual achievements. In 2002 Yuri was not returning to North
America, Instead he began his graduate work in a Russian University and
supported himself by publishing his travel diaries in the Canadian newspapers.
His style was funny and light, but had enough poignancy to please even
his mother's worried ear. Indeed, it was not just my heart he soothed
with his breezy air. His slightly accented Russian speech disarmed the
listeners, and thus he got the cheapest fares from the cabdrivers (I am
usually charged double for all my hard-nosed bargaining). In Petersburg
he knows all the bus routes around the city, flirts with the Russian waitresses
right in front of my incredulous self, and only too obviously enjoys all
different brands of Russian beer. He has even been arrested for entering
the Summer Garden in St. Petersburg at the forbidden hour, to read and
think, he told me. These are the true wages of adapting to a new, and
for me, an old and ghostly country
My daughter matched her brother's pattern of adaptation with striking
grace and wit, and with something more to boot. For one, she had astonished
all of us who, mind you, should have known better. She fell in love with
a young Russian musician of Jewish origin. It is indeed a fact, foreshadowed
by many a Chagall painting which I had so unknowingly hung in her old
room. Shocked by the development, I succumb, watching in disbelief how
she has inhabited the Russian youth from which I was so irreversibly banished
many many years ago.
Walking hand in hand, my children and their friends disappear between
the stony buildings of this 300-year-old city. In season they go to concerts
every third day, know all the best musicians and all the artsy rumors,
and my daughter loses her customary cool when her Romeo performs. She
reassumes it though in Mariinsky., pointing out to me with very knowledgeable
air which of the sopranos go too high without ever attempting to pay attention
to the notes.
This is the world from which for me there is no waking up. Yet I also
know I could have not imagined this if I were writing fiction. My careful
and anxious imagination would have failed. Life guides this book and straightens
my mistakes by adding further challenges and complications.
Whatever my daughter as a child lacked in her Russian language training
(my old fault) has been now more than amplified by her newly found unanticipated
friends. Her life in Russia, of course, was by no means the East of Eden.
By labor and sweat of brow did our young inheritors assume their rightful
place. Accepted in the piano program in St. Petersburg Conservatory, my
child had to work and work, repaying for her unguided days in front of
North American TV. Nevertheless, she knew how to shake the pressures off.
No one, not even Yuri could beat her at bargaining for the cheapest taxi
fares, the fact that made my hair turn yet another shade of grey. The
meek, but feisty seemed to have inherited the earth.
The summer of the apartment-buying was like a challenge and a puzzle that
I was unable to resolve. While looking at my children, I forgot my own
life, and yet my father's aversion to buying anything in his beloved country
was like a spell which totally neutralized my will. We clearly needed
another player to enter the impasse... and lift it or dissolve it. My
husband Kevin arrived at Pulkovo (St. Petersburg's international airport)
on July 8th. We had a month before our return to Emory, but he said he
thought best when under pressure. And the storm began. We needed an apartment,
he decided within a day or so of his arrival, for both of our children
while the prices in St. Petersburg were still so low. "Would not you want,
Elena," he said to me, "an apartment with internet and a piano near the
conservatory? Perhaps, then you can be forever young and know that no
unregistered taxis are carrying your children at some unearthly hour."
To be truthful, these were not exactly the words he said, but... My father,
by contrast, would have never approached this issue so simply. For him
and me there were too many very real ghosts. But Kevin and children, they
came from a very different world.
To me my husband's decision meant that I was coming home after the 30
years' break. It also implied some very practical details: we had, for
one, no time to waste. I had a month and a limit of $30,000 for the apartment
hunting. So I began to look. The frightening reality of Russian poverty
met you at that price without delay. In 1999 we could have bought with
$30,000 a Russian Tajh Majal, but now I looked and looked and thought
that I was literally going back to the world of Dostoyevsky's novels.
At least half of places that I saw had many icons in the main room, but
very ancient plumbing and no hot water. Those who had hot water placed
the showers and the bath in places I would never have imagined, like in
close proximity to the kitchen sink. Thus, after 10 days I was about to
conclude the search ... with nothing.
But with this decision I underestimated my Russian friends. On the computer
late into the night they searched and found a new listing that seemed
too extraordinary to be true. They called and made an immediate appointment.
The next evening (alone without my foreign husband, not to confuse the
new sales agent) I looked at a three-room flat and found, to my surprise,
that the bath tab was neither in the kitchen, nor in the hallway, and
that the rooms had light and height. Within the ten minutes I told the
agent I would buy this. She asked me to call her later, wrote down my
name, and continued to show the apartment to a crowd of people, coming
in droves to the door.
Later that night after two hours of busy signal I finally heard her voice.
She had 4 other offers. But this time I was first (because she put down
my name in her notebook as everyone else was coming in), and strangely
she had no desire to organize the bid further. Next morning we found the
agency and gave them our deposit (in cash: Russian market does not know
cheques), and then my husband Kevin went to see the place. What he actually
saw I do not know, but I had a feeling that he was deeply shocked and
thought that I had finally and genuinely lost my mind. The clever lady-agent,
however, told him that all the problems of the apartment were purely cosmetic.
This was a lovely word and covered a lot of things. And then we waited
for the bank's transfer of the money.
My luck, like I myself, has at least two sides. The transference of money
was simply a disaster; the sum had been lost en route. I talked for hours
to London office and to New York, I talked daily to the Russian bank and
at the end no longer winced at the girl's rudeness. The money did arrive
5 days before our return to the US, and we still needed 4 working days
to register the flat to our name. When the Russian bank called that the
transfer finally appeared at their system, my sides were hurting as if
I had just delivered yet another child.
Then Kevin and I walked by the Fontanka. I wondered how he, an Englishman,
had got himself so mixed up in this. He, I was surprised to hear, was
happy that he could return my home back to me. It was really the first
quiet moment since he arrived.
Before our departure we went through many moods. The bank having received
the wire did not have the necessary cash. We waited in the lobby for 3
hours for a suitcase of money carried by a man, who was accompanied by
two policemen. The money, $30,000 in hundred dollar bills, was given to
us by a teller, while my friends demanded to examine every note. The agency,
they said, would not take old or dirty bills. The ensuing chaos attracted
what to us seemed to be almost a dangerous amount of attention. My friends
would not give up; the tellers began to shout. A scene in question was
definitely not to Kevin's taste. He, I am sure, questioned all our wits
and was not exactly sure of his own. Then still in something of a quiet
shock or rather in a state of quiet horror, my foreign husband carrying
the whole sum was ushered into a very ugly looking taxi . There was simply
no way to switch the whole scene off and to return to his beloved England.
Meanwhile the sales agent waited, the taxi breaking every hundred meters.
Long ago now, as I have said before, I have returned to Emory to teach
Dostoyevsky and other Russian writers to my students. In 2003, having
spent a year in the flat while it was being fully renovated, my children
moved to the US, and the apartment now is rented to our friends. Yet in
the middle of the busiest moment of the term, I have a mental exercise
that gives me peace. At first, I go and sit by my father's grave and look
at the crosses near the monastery entrance where my father had found his
final resting place. And then I think of my administrative leave. What
if I can take my younger daughter Sarah and go back to Russia? My step-mother
will join me then, Kevin will visit me and possibly stay one term, and
no longer my older children, but I myself will go to concerts at night
and write and think during the day. Then my second self, Miranda, will
not go for the state parties or lavish dinners. Her every third thought
will be a grave, but she will be forever young.
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